Morey Saint Denis Clos Baulet, Domaine des Lambrays 2023

This is aromatically similar to the Loups if perhaps just slightly spicier. By contrast, the medium weight flavors are not quite as rich and generous with a bit more verve suffusing the youthfully austere bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. This sleek and delicious effort should also repay 6 to 10 years of keeping. (Drink starting 2030)

Ruby purple, with a bundle of energy on the nose. Glowing deep dark red fruit, with a little white pepper, much more energy to the fruit, mouth filling dark red raspberry, spicy at the finish, shows warmth and delicacy at the same time.

The ripe, curranty fruit aromas of the Morey Clos Baulet has an agreeable note of eucalyptus or rosemary; Jacques Devauges says ‘végétale noble’, but the translation doesn’t convey the charm of this earthy, slightly rustic note. The tannins are firm but not astringent and there is enough freshness to draw the wine to a lovely finish. The grapes are from the 0.30 hectare plot just down from the winery. The wine will be ready to open in five to seven years, and will continue to improve for another 20 beyond that. (Drink between 2028-2060)