Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Domaine Esmonin 2013

A trace of wood toast sits atop elegant, pure and airy aromas of spice, rose petal, plum, pomegranate and wet stone. There is excellent concentration to the mineral-driven, intense and palate coating flavors that possess a velvety mouth feel where the supporting tannins possess good phenolic maturity, all wrapped in a long and balanced if presently slightly lean and compact finale. This should age extremely well yet the somewhat austere finish also makes it clear that it's going to need patience.

The 2013 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques was a reduced crop because the vines lower down the slope suffered more acutely than those at the top. Containing 60% whole-bunch fruit and matured in 60% new oak, it has an ebullient bouquet that shimmers with tension: small dark cherries, limestone and just a hint of cola. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins and very well-judged acidity. The new oak closes in toward the finish, but that will eventually be absorbed by the fruit. It does not have the persistence of the 2012, but it is another very finely crafted Clos Saint Jacques from Sylvie Esmonin.