Magnificent in its complexity and pure breeding, the 2002 Extra Brut Celebris has it all. The Extra Brut style confers the signature Gosset drive, while extended time on the lees has given the wine just enough texture and body to fill out nicely. In the meantime, the aromas and flavors have mellowed into those that are typical of Champagne entering the first plateau of its maturity. The 2002 is vinous, fleshy and super-expressive, yet retains striking freshness throughout. Candied lemon peel, apricot jam, honey, mint, spices and sage form a compelling fabric of flavors and textures in a knock-out Champagne that is peaking today. The 2002 is 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir from vineyards in Aÿ, Bouzy, Verzy, Chouilly and Cramant.
An elegant, complex and wonderfully expressive nose features plenty of yeast character on the extremely fresh citrusy, apple, pear, brioche and cool floral scents. There is equally good complexity to the detailed, refined and intense flavors that seem to lilt across the palate thanks to the ultra-fine bead of the supporting mousse, all wrapped in a delicious and refreshing finale that delivers excellent length on the bright and agreeably tangy finish. This is drinking perfectly though there is absolutely no rush to drink up.
The Celebris is only made in spectacular vintages and is a blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. The nose here is immediately complex and yet defined. Distinctive ripe apples and peaches, biscuit and brioche are tightened by a steeliness that makes this an instantly attractive prospect. The palate is rich and giving, with all the flavours following from the nose, given length by smoothly-textured mousse and lifted by the crisp acidity. The finish is long and rich, and gains further yeasty, creamy notes. Absolutely delicious.
The 2002 Gosset “Cuvée Celebris” continues to open up beautifully as it evolves with bottle age, and if anything, the wine is even finer today than was the case when I last tasted it a year ago. As readers may recall, this vintage of Celebris is a blend of fifty-two percent chardonnay and forty-eight percent pinot noir and was finished with a dosage of five grams per liter. The wine is starting to show beautiful secondary layers of complexity on both the nose and palate at age fifteen, wafting from the glass in a complex constellation of apple, a touch of fresh apricot, brioche, complex, chalky minerality, almond, gentle smokiness and a touch of orange zest in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and complex, with excellent focus and balance, plenty of concentration at the core, very refined mousse and a long, elegant and utterly suave finish. The 2002 Celebris has now entered its plateau of peak maturity, but will continue to cruise along with grace for at least another twenty-five years in bottle. Superb wine. (Drink between 2017-2040)
The 2002 Celebris Vintage Extra Brut displays a noble, clear, fresh and subtle bouquet with white fruit and brioche flavors intertwined with mineral aromas. Silky textured and highly elegant, this full-bodied yet delicate blend of 48% Pinot Noir and 52% Chardonnay is clear and straight on the palate, revealing a ripe and intense, yet refined fruit. It has a persistent and complex, firmly structured, stimulatingly pure and salty finish. Great finesse and ethereal lightness here, with great purity and mineral tension. It also has the intensity of perfect fruit in the long and persistent finish. A great Champagne for the next ten and probably many more years. 2016-2026.
(a blend of 8 grands crus with 64% chardonnay and 36% pinot noir). An elegant, complex and wonderfully expressive nose features plenty of yeast character on the citrusy, apple, pear, brioche and cool floral scents. There is equally good complexity to the detailed, refined and intense flavors that seem to lilt across the palate thanks to the ultra-fine bead of the supporting mousse, all wrapped in a delicious and refreshing finale that delivers excellent length. I was suitably impressed by this effort that offers the choice of enjoying its considerable pleasures now or holding it for another 3 to 5 years first, which is what I would suggest. Drink 2018+.
