Sugrue The Trouble With Dreams, Sugrue South Downs 2022

This new release from Sugrue is the first Trouble With Dreams made after Dermot left Wiston Estate, with new sources of fruit allowing for production to grow as he and Ana made their dream their full time reality. The fruit is largely from Coldharbour and the blend is 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, half in steel and half in barrel as usual. The nose is superb and open-knit already, showing notes of salted pretzel dough, confit lemon and peppery white fruit. The palate is textural, rich but cut by fresh acidity. This is a structured, complex wine that unfurls with air to show a ripeness we rarely see in English wine without losing vibrancy or personality. The leesy, bready autolytic notes build with air, but it is the balance between these notes and the fruit that make this just so enjoyable. Another brilliant release of our favourite English sparkling wine.