Putting the case that Bordeaux offers some exceptional value might seem like a challenge these days but the simple fact is that, at up to £250 per dozen or so, there is no region in the world that offers such breadth and depth in terms of sheer quality. There is also a strong argument for looking back to the 2020, 2019 and 2016 vintages rather anything more recent. A blind wine Friday two weeks ago came up with a true winner: 2016 Château Capbern.
Château Capbern is a St Estèphe property that has shared ownership with Calon Ségur since 2012. The vineyards are very well-situated, on typical St Estèphe soil, in a single block between Phélan Ségur and Meyney. The quality here was already very good before the takeover and has moved up even further since. The wine is now made by the same team as Calon, and you can taste a similar DNA in the wines when tasted side by side.
The 2016 is immediately seductive and captures the essence of Bordeaux, along with everything that is great about the vintage. It is a rounded and modern style, one that it pulls off without losing any of its St Estèphe soul. It will easily keep for another five years plus, though will show just as well at the weekend (and this is the sort of wine that immediately has you thinking about making a visit to the butcher).
Neal Martin rates it 92 points: “This is a superb Capbern, easily the best ever made.” Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW is also at 92 points “It bursts with scents of black cherries, mulberries, and cassis, plus suggestions of underbrush and pencil lead with a waft of Indian spices.”, whilst Jeb Dunnuck and Jane Anson are 94. Our own Thomas Parker MW, moonlighting for jancisrobinson.com, scores it 17 out of 20 (which translates to somewhere between 93 and 94 on the 100 point scale).
In short, this is a great deal all round. An outstanding wine made by the team of one of its appellation’s top three wines, from what might be the best vintage of modern times, almost ten years old, and £20 per bottle in bond. Drink now or cellar for another five to ten years plus. Proof that Bordeaux can deliver outstanding quality and value at the same time.
The 2016 Capbern from the Calon-Ségur team, matured in 50-60% new oak, has a wonderful bouquet of blackberry, pencil lead and light floral aromas that leap out of the glass. The beautifully balanced palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, leading to a supple, smooth but complex graphite finish. This is a superb Capbern, easily the best ever made. Drink 2021-2040
Deep shiny purple turning red at the rim. Peppery black and blue fruits line the nose, together with a touch of incense and graphite, with a back note of ripe black cherry. There is a real sense of round, ripe fruit but also pencil shavings and savoury spice. The palate is plush on entry, full of inky blueberry and cassis fruit. There is a touch of vanilla bean and espresso, but that graphite tone keeps everything in check. The tannins add chalky bite, keeping everything balanced. Long, supple and opening up nicely in the glass. Spicy, lightly smoky and oozing black fruit on the finish, this is an impressive showing. 2022 - 2040
Very pretty fruit with dark berries, plums and currants. Hints of sweet tobacco. Medium bodied, firm and silky. Lovely, juicy finish with delicious acidity at the end. The 18 per cent of fabulous cabernet franc in this makes it special. Hard not to drink now, but better in 2023.
The 2016 Capbern is deep garnet colored. It bursts with scents of black cherries, mulberries, and cassis, plus suggestions of underbrush and pencil lead with a waft of Indian spices. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is packed with spicy black fruits, delivering velvety tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long.
Deep ruby colour, similar to the 2014 but with a little more vibrancy. On the palate, the depth and concentration is clear, with layers of damson plum, cocoa bean, mandarin peel, earth and peat. Full of charm and character, with higher alcohols than many but no trace of heat.
40% Merlot.
Tasted blind. Very dark crimson. Juicy and lively with real pace and intensity and some chalky, slightly inky, dry finish. Good fruit concentration. VGV
Drink 2025 – 2040
Deep ruby-purple in the glass with an effusive nose of blackcurrant, graphite and smoke on the nose. Muscular yet suave on the palate, there is rich, fine-grained tannin at the core. Pure cassis, cool cherries and sweet spices mingle together and are lifted by the structure and acids. Intense and pure on a lingering finish that is etched with pencil shavings and smoke. You could approach this now with a healthy decant, but it will doubtless be better in two years and improve for a further 8-10. It has the intensity and structure to age for up to two decades.
Made by the stellar team at Calon Ségur, the 2016 Château Capbern is fabulous stuff that readers should snatch up. Based on 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot raised in 60% new French oak, this deeply colored Saint-Estèphe offers textbook crème de cassis, lead pencil shavings, crushed tobacco leaf, and damp earth. Deep, medium to full-bodied, concentrated, with fine tannins and everything in the right places, it’s going to benefit from short-term cellaring and keep for upwards of two decades. 2022 - 2042.
A serious contender for the crown of best value wine of the vintage, this a supremely drinkable St Estèphe with no rough edges. Grassy, aromatic and beautifully weighted, it’s a comparatively forward style with a touch of underlying grip and a mineral flourish. 2020-28
