Thibaud Boudignon is one of the most exciting up-and-coming producers in the Loire. Starting his domaine in 2009, the focus has been to produce steely, dry wines of tension and freshness. Thibaud has serious credentials. He was born in Bordeaux and worked at Lafite and Canon La Gaffelière, and as far afield as Australia, before settling in Loire in 2007. The majority of his holdings are based in Anjou and Savennières, with his Chenin Blancs gaining an increasingly cult following for those in the know.
Farming is biodynamic and manual, hard work in the vineyard sets the tone for the wines in the glass. As would be expected, indigenous yeasts are used throughout. While the white wines are now pushing £100 a bottle, the hidden value in his portfolio is a rosé that is largely made from Cabernet Franc with a touch of Grolleau. The wine is made from 30+ year old vines on schist soils. Direct pressed and fermented in steel without malolactic fermentation.
We tasted the 2021 recently and it is bursting with Cabernet Franc typicity. This offers a different take on rosé - it is pale and dry but with a real sense of place. Fresh red berries and bright acids come together with notes of cranberry, graphite and fresh herbs. The late Josh Raynolds, writing for Vinous, gives it 92 points, calling it "vibrant, mineral- and spice tinged". He too points to the typicity of the variety, highlighting the "botanical" nature of the wine and the "very long and precise" finish. At £140 per dozen in bond, it offers an introduction to Boudignon and rosé from the Loire more generally at a very modest price point.
Limpid orange. Vibrant, mineral- and spice tinged strawberry and orange zest aromas show fine definition and a building floral nuance. Shows firm tension and cut on the palate, offering intense citrus fruit and red berry character and a suggestion of botanical herbs. Finishes very long and precise, with the floral and mineral notes repeating. - Josh Raynolds
Thibaud Boudignon is one of the most exciting up-and-coming producers in the Loire. Anjou and Savennières form a large part of his holdings, producing steely, dry wines of tension and freshness. Farming is biodynamic with indigenous yeasts used throughout. The Rosé is largely made from Cabernet Franc with a touch of Grolleau, coming from 30+ year old vines on schist soils. Direct pressed and fermented in steel without malolactic fermentation. The rosé is a very different take on the style to the Provencal wines to which we are accustomed. It is pale and dry as we would expect, but bursting with Cabernet Franc character. Fully herbal and spicy, it has notes of blood orange, thyme and fresh tomato. The palate layers more of this character with waves of refreshing acidity. This is a lithe, streamlined wine that offers a truly alternative summer drink.
