The vintages 2019 to 2022 offer some stellar wines in Bordeaux. Though I have tasted the wines extensively, it is normally either at a horizontal tasting of one vintage, such as the Southwold Group tasting, or vertically at a château, where it is possible to taste multiple vintages at once. However, once a year several of the region's top names converge on London to offer a four vintage vertical in one room. This opportunity to taste in three dimensions offers context on the performances of wines against their peers in different vintages at one time. Tasting the likes of Montrose, Leoville Poyferré, Rauzan Ségla and Canon in these vintages has given an eye-opening update on the wines. Below is a summary of some of the most notable takeaways of the tasting, followed by a handful of tasting notes for wines that particularly impressed.
2019 is undoubtedly a great vintage, and so this tasting proved again. Its approachable, seductive side makes for delicious, effortless and seamless wines that will provide pure drinking pleasure for years to come. In many ways this vintage represents the advancement in winemaking and viticulture in Bordeaux since 2009 - the vintages share similarities but 2019 has so much more freshness and greater balance to my palate.
2020 has taken a few years to reveal its full potential, at this same tasting last year I preferred all the 2019s to their 2020 counterparts. Now, however, this is changing. The wines are more cerebral, with pinpoint structures, chewier profiles and cooler fruit. They don't have the flair and easy drinkability of 2019, but as they mature in bottle they are revealing a focus and depth that makes them very exciting. In many ways 2019 vs 2020 could prove to be the high definition equivalent of 2009 vs 2010.
2021 was not a success en primeur and the wines struggled significantly in such esteemed company. I had hoped for freshness, zip and charm but the reality is that most of these wines lack flesh and complexity, falling into a lean, meagre style that does not excite with so much opportunity elsewhere. Perhaps these wines will find their place in time, but for now they are best avoided. One surprise was Canon La Gaffeliere - the sweet style paired very well to the vintages inherent shortcomings, and suggests that the typically bold, hedonistic châteaux might be the best bet here.
2022 is still very, very young with most wines yet to be bottled. It is a step behind 2019 and 2020, but the manor in which the heat has been tamed and the fruit integrity retained makes the wines more intriguing and enjoyable than 2018. The best examples (such as Canon) are superb, but there is more variability here that requires navigation. It will be interesting to see how these wines show once bottled. Branaire Ducru was also impressive at its price point.
Château Montrose has moved to a new level in recent vintages - it is now, as William Kelley puts it, a "de facto first growth". The 2022 was not available to taste, but both the 2019 and 2020 are absolutely stunning and potentially perfect wines. The depth, energy and precision on show here is unrivalled in St Estèphe. Collectors should confidently buy these wines as they are the very best that Bordeaux has to offer. Even the 2021 is impressive in its style, it was comfortably the best 2021 of the left bank wines on show. For those that don't have the budget to buy Montrose, Château Tronquoy is made by the same team, and the recently released 2019 is a stunner for the price. Matching Montrose's personality with a deft drinkability, I bought a case right after tasting this wine, it is a delicious, serious bottle at roughly £30 all-in.
Château Canon 2020 is an electric wine, understated and precise yet with great drinking pleasure. This is a benchmark wine at the estate, just edging out the brilliant, seductive 2019. The 2022 is, too, a very exciting wine. With a brilliant bouquet, seductive fruit and great sophistication in structure, the team has clearly maximised the potential of this vintage. The consistency in recent vintages shows this is a St Emilion property at the peak of its powers.
Other wines of note included the 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte, which was harmonious yet incredibly seductive, and remains above the 2020 in my estimations. Similarly, the 2019 Rauzan Ségla is a delight - the debate as to whether this or the 2020 will be more enjoyable to drink will doubtless continue for years, both are superb. The afforementioned Branaire Ducru 2022 was a real hit, the classicism of the château pairing beautifully with the bombastic style of the vintage. Branaire is really performing well for its price in recent vintages. Léoville Poyferré 2020 is a knockout, edging the 2019 in precision, though I wonder is many might enjoy the fleshy hedonism of the latter when drinking it with food.
Bordeaux is producing the best wines in its history right now, collectors are spoilt for choice in recent vintages. Personally I have bought much 2019, and feel the need, now, to buy more 2016 and 2020. These three vintages represent the best in the last decade. 2022 is the next best, just above 2018. 2021 is not as weak as 2013, but it likely sits with 2017 as a difficult year to love. Thankfully, there is so much else to buy, cellar and enjoy in recent years.
Deep, shiny purple in the glass, the 2020 is a supremely focused, tightly coiled powerhouse. Fresh blackcurrant, soy, pencil shavings and black cherry form an alluring bouquet on the nose. The palate is vertical, with incisive black fruit deep and intense, contained by chiselled tannins that, while firm, are ripe and perfectly formed. Often wines this precise can lack flair, but the layers of smoke, streaks of fine acid and fantastic array of fruit on show make this as exciting as it is elegant. Full of potential, there is no doubt this wine has the potential for a perfect score in the future. Be patient; this very long, uncompromising Montrose warrants 15+ years before opening. It is undoubtedly a contender for wine of the vintage.
Deep in colour and dark in fruit, the 2019 Montrose is more immediate than the 2020, powerful and rich with cassis fruit, graphite, charred dark plum and liquorice. The palate is highly refined, with mouthcoating but ripe tannins. Peppery and full, this harnesses the sunkissed nature of the vintage to show ripe black fruit, but retains all its Médocain structure and freshness. An outstanding and above all delicious wine, it is layered, complex and very, very long. Though approachable for Montrose, it is best to wait until a decade old before considering approaching. It will be superb to drink for decades.
Deep, vivid purple in the glass and intense on the nose with a gravelly, smoky tone and lashings of ripe blackcurrant fruit. Rich and powerful on the palate, it matches depth with a sheen of silky blue and black fruit. There is an airy top note, balancing the fruit with notes of flowers and white pepper. A spicy, impressive, complex wine, this is a mini Montrose. Outstanding value for money.
Deep purple in colour. Tightly wound but enticing on the nose, supremely focused with notes of black cherry, violet and dark chocolate. The palate is similarly coiled but has deceptive power and intensity. The tannins are very refined but mouthcoating, cloaking the dark fruit with a gentle grip. Saline, tense and full of potential. This needs time, but the precision here is very exciting. Impressive.
Deep purple in the glass. An outstanding nose, expansive and sweet yet sophisticated. Steeped dark cherry, espresso, bitter cocoa, dark plum and soy sauce all come through. The palate follows with a plush, full-bodied entry immediately tightened by polished, plentiful tannins. A round, succulent wine for the château, this managed superb refinement for the vintage. Broad and deep, with an unerring finish. Excellent.
Deep purple in colour, sweet, decadent fruit bursts from the glass, laced with notes of baked vanilla, sandalwood and graphite. Supple tannins melt into intense, round but well-defined black fruit, which has high notes of violet and rose petals. Smoky with prominent but balancing wood, you could just about drink this now but it will doubtless improve and integrate over the coming decade. A real crowd-pleaser, showy without excess.
Deep ruby colour. Sweet dark cherries, dried violets and gentle sweet spices meet on a fragrant nose. Highly polished tannins alow the fine fruit at the core to shine, showing intriguing notes of iris, green peppercorn and spiced plums. This succulent and very fine Rauzan Segla gives sensual and intellectual pleasure in equal measure. Seamless and very long on the finish.
Saturated purple colour, with a surprising classicism and freshness for the vintage. There is still a deep core of cassis fruit, but there is too a hint a graphite, hedgerow and general savoury complexity. The palate is chewy and structured, with a rich layer of tannins coating the black fruit. There is energy and vibrancy to this wine. The wood is generous and smoky but in keeping with the fruit and tannin. Once this hits 10 years old it should really hit its stride.
Deep purple colour. Damson, blackberry and ripe blackcurrants burst through on the nose, which has Poyferre's signature smokiness but in a remarkably balanced frame at such a young age. The palate is chiselled, chalky and layered. There are persistent, chewy tannins at the core, together with intense, ripe black fruit. Building through the mid-palate, this is a refined and precise wine. Deep, with a very long finish, this is a very accomplished, ageworthy vintage at this property.
