Chassagne Montrachet Caillerets, Bernard Moreau 2017

The fruit of an exchange in grapes with another vigneron, the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets offers up notes of lemon oil, hazelnut paste, wheat toast and crushed rocks, framed by light reduction that dissipates in the glass. Medium to full-bodied, it's ample, layered and broad-shouldered but very incisive, mouthwatering and mineral, with lovely structural tension. Along with the Vergers and of course the Chevalier-Montrachet, it's the most tensile and chiseled wine in the Moreau cellar.