Volnay Les Champans, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville 2021

The 2021 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is performing beautifully in bottle, bursting with aromas of raspberries, orange zest, peonies and baking spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate that's deep, pure and perfumed, with melting tannins and a mouthwatering finish. It's further evidence that consumers may live to regret neglecting the best 2021s.

A strikingly elegant nose is comprised by notes of pure, airy and cool essence of red cherry, spice wisps and a pretty suggestion of lilac. There is equally good tension suffusing the slightly less elegant medium weight flavors that possess a more refined mouthfeel than usual while delivering first-rate persistence on the austere, chiseled, linear and built-to-age finale. This will definitely require at least some patience as it's quite compact today.

Champans and Clos des Ducs were a little less affected by the frost, with 15 barrels of each made. Just a touch paler in colour but easily the same density of red fruit on the nose as Taillepieds. A little bit on the raw side, and more oak showing, good length but less in place at this stage. Drink from 2028-2033.