Henri Giraud PR 19 - 90 Non Vintage

The 100% solera-based PR 90-19 is an 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay blend. As with all the Giraud wines, it was barrel fermented in Argonne oak and has a minimum of 3 years on lees before disgorgement. This light rose-gold tinted wine is a vinous style of champagne that, except for two persistent columns of pin-head-sized bubbles, would easily fool the eye as a still wine. From an inch above the glass, the nose catches alluring notes of bruised apple, chestnut honey, orange blossom, and dried persimmon that slowly amplify in intensity to reveal a faint toastiness and whiff of salinity. The mouthfeel is luxuriously lithe and lively, built around a depth of concentrated fruit richness that is precisely fused with vibrant and supple acidity. The acid interplay is a stunner—like fluid energy tightly woven into condensed freshness. Not a single bubble pokes out of place. The 5g/l dosage puts this champagne in the extra brut territory, but all the fruit ripeness adds a lovely buoyancy to a long, clean finish. 8000 bottles were produced for sale. The Lot tasted here was disgorged on 13 January 2023. All disgorgement dates are etched on the bottle for full traceability.

The center palate to this is impressive with light salted caramel, toffee, dried apple and peach skin. It opens to reveal aromas and flavors of sea salt, oyster shell and chalk. Medium to full body. Some creme brulee. Creamy texture. Extremely long and complex at the end. 80% pinot noir and 20% chardonnay. Blend of two solera systems of perpetual reserve, started in 1990.

This cuvée has as much in common with a mature grand cru still white as it does with its peers in Champagne. Straw coloured in the glass, the nose is rich and complex, layering ripe orchard fruit with honey, dried fig and sherried almond notes. The palate, too, blends the verve and flesh of youth with the deep complexity of maturity. Fruit and nut mix together in a heady, full-bodied style compounded by a creamy, persistent mousse. Intense, layered and deeply savoury, this slick, intense wine mixes brioche, fresh custard, white peach, toasted hazelnuts and more dried fig. An alluring, powerful Champagne that is best suited to food, the mature wines in the blend mean it is drinking perfectly now. It will be intriguing to follow over the coming decade.