Criots Batard Montrachet Haute Densite, Domaine Hubert Lamy 2016

Lamy produced only one barrel of Criots-Bâtard this year, but what a barrel! A complex and compelling bouquet of orange blossom, tangerine, lemon oil, poached pear, cinnamon and a touch of oak vanillin precedes a full-bodied, multidimensional wine with fabulous energy despite its considerable amplitude, a bottomless core of fruit, and almost painful levels of extract and intensity. The stunningly flavourful finish builds and builds after the wine is long gone.

**Note: from a tiny .05 ha parcel planted to a current density of 25,000 vines/ha**
This is the first wine to display any appreciable reduction along with noticeable if not intrusive wood. The rich, muscular and very concentrated big-bodied flavors coat the palate with dry extract on the powerful, serious and very clearly built-to-age finale. Once again, plenty of patience will be required but it should be more than worth the wait as this is potentially fabulous.

The 2016 Criots Batard Montrachet Haut Densite Grand Cru was cropped at 45 hectoliters per hectare because of the late and short pruning that Lamy practiced on the vines. It has a wonderful bouquet with aniseed-tinged citrus fruit that just wraps itself around your senses. There is a labyrinthine-like quality to the nose, opening and shutting aromatic windows each time I returned to the glass. The palate is fresh and very confident on the entry, that aniseed theme continuing, great depth and sense of energy with a very long and spicy finish. This is one hell of a Criots in what was a challenging growing season.