Chablis Vaudesir, Christian Moreau 2017

Aromas of wheat toast, orange rind and green apple mingle with suggestions of oyster shell and vanilla pod in an incipiently complex bouquet, introducing Moreau's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir, a full-bodied, supple and satiny wine that's notably concentrated—reflecting its meager yield of nine hectoliters per hectare—with ripe acids, an elegantly muscular profile and a long, lingering finish. It was matured entirely in wood.