Extremely complex aromas that show the classic Graham character of black-fruit marmalade and burnt oranges. Follows through to a full body with great grip at the finish. Lightly sweet. Chewy and powerful. Such a focus at the end.
There is a mass of rich ripe fruit on the nose yet there is spice cinnamon and cloves. Concentrated flavours the palate has a rich mix of black fruits, damsons, black cherries an opulence and sweetness. Firm tannins but they are ripe the rich fruit is underpinned by a fresh streak the finish has a mix of spice lots of black pepper – a wine with harmony and balance. 2038-65
A deep, inky, viscous purple in the glass. The nose here is opulent, with blackberry and damson fruits over tar, clove and Christmas cake. The palate is concentrated and powerful, with generous sweetness carrying the explosive, ripe fruit core on entry. The tannins are plentiful, as you would expect from a vintage port, but they are so refined as to be subsumed underneath the fruit at this stage. This openness allows all the complex notes of black pepper and baking spices to shine through to a very long finish. A bright cut of acidity pulls back the sweetness, and in tandem with the tannins leaves a drier, more harmonious finish than might be expected. This has great length and complexity. Very impressive.
All the Symington wines had exceptionally deep colours. This one has a particularly deep blackish-purple, still with a blueish hue. On the already-expressive nose I found prunes, something floral and a note of balsam, plus lots of freshness. Relatively open on the palate too. Rather elegant and the hugely sweet fruit almost covers a massive charge of silky tannins. This is almost like a sweet, tannic table wine. Pure and polished. Sweeter than most. One of those wines that some people might easily persuade themselves could be drunk relatively young, Satin textured.
Drink 2040-2065
This wine has every single facet of flavour and energy that I adore in vintage Port. The nose is epic and all-encompassing and the power and attack on the palate is relentless and also insanely pleasurable at the same time. Infinitely layered and lasting for minutes on the palate I went back to taste this Port three times such was the magnetic appeal of its profound flavours. While this is a dense and indulgent wine it has exquisite freshness, too, and the balance is nothing short of perfect.
A blend from four quintas: Malvedos (41%), nearby Tua (25%) as well as Vila Velha and Vale de Malhadas in the Douro Superior, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Sousão and old, mixed vines: very deep, inky colour; super-ripe, floral but still quite raw on the nose, needing time to knit together; rich plummy opulence backed by dark chocolate intensity and spicy tannic grip, big and bold on the finish. Voluptuous. Fabulous richness. This is one for the long haul and is already very, very impressive. 6,325 cases. 19/20.
