Chablis Butteaux, Domaine François Raveneau 2007

This is clearly the best of these left bank 1ers with its refined and ultra elegant nose that features a classic mix of citrus, floral, iodine and tidal pool notes trimmed in enough wood to notice it though not enough to dominate the nose. The powerful, concentrated and very firm medium plus weight flavors deliver a bone dry and palate etching finish of superb length. This is a classy effort that is almost painfully intense and it's clear that the older vines add another dimension. Impressive.

Raveneau's 2007 Chablis Butteaux smells uncannily of the sea and beach detritus, marking the greatest imaginable contrast to the exotically, lushly-fruited aromas of the 2006. Brine, iodine, and things crustacean and bivalvular mark the palate here, too, along with refreshing lemon, bittersweet floral perfume, and hints of tart red berry. The suggestions of cask should prove well-integrated in the final assemblage (portions of the initial blend had, unsurprisingly, been returned to newer barrels than had others) and a long finish of truly lip-smacking and thought-provoking savor is assured over the better part of the next decade.