Hermitage Blanc, J-L Chave 2022

I continue to think that this estate makes one of the greatest white wines in the world. Looking at the 2022 Hermitage Blanc, it was harvested starting on the 23rd of August and is still resting in a mix of barrel and tank. I was able to taste through multiple lieux-dits, all of which were impressive, with the Péléat bringing the power and opulence and Les Rocoules and L'Ermite bringing more structure and precision. This will be a full-bodied, deep, concentrated wine that will have decades of life. In a time when many refuse to take any risks and are abandoning any hope of true greatness in wine, it's such a relief to have a producer like this continue to make concentrated, powerful, utterly classic and singular wines. Bravo.

This iconic estate continues to hold the line on what constitutes a truly great Hermitage, both red and white, and there are few vinous treats better than a tasting with Jean-Louis Chave in his cellar in Mauve. Looking at the wines reviewed here, the 2022s were tasted from barrel, and this is a ripe, sunny, yet also tannic vintage that’s going to benefit from its élevage, as well as require bottle age. They remind me slightly of Chave’s 1998, although as I say in the review, I think there’s a touch more sun-kissed fruit in the 2022s. The 2021s are beautiful, elegant, seamless wines, and you’ll be hard pressed to do better in the vintage. These aren’t massive wines, but they have pretty, complex, and classic profiles that will drink well with just a few years of bottle age. On another level, the 2020s are powerful, massive wines that remind me slightly of the 2010s (or is it 2009s?). They have tons of baby fat and are already fun to taste, but these are built for the long haul.

2022 was the earliest harvest in the estate's history. Jean-Louis Chave harvested the Roucoule and Péléat plots on August 23-24, while Maison Blanche and Ermite were picked on August 28. The 2022 Hermitage Blanc reveals a complex, ripe bouquet of almonds, white flowers, honey and spices mingled with baked orchard fruits. Full-bodied and concentrated, the palate is rich and dense with a suave texture, a multidimensional core of fruit framed by chalky dry extracts and a delicate, phenolic, gastronomic bitterness. Slightly austere at this stage, this gastronomic wine is built for the cellar. 2028 - 2042