Weyborne Estate Oriana 2019

The 2019 Brut Oriana Vintage is a debut release from the most elevated site of the South Downs, blending 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Meunier, with just under three years on lees. The base wines underwent full malolactic conversion. Bright lemon and freshly cut green and yellow apple are vivid on the nose, carrying into a palate that is rounder, juicier and smoother than initially suggested. Fine mousse is sprightly and underlines the graceful yet vibrant nature of this wine. Bravo on the restrained dosage, allowing the ripe pure fruit to speak clearly. Disgorged: June 2023. Drink 2025-2030.

12% ABV. 61% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier with fruit coming from the oldest plot on this, 1 acre in the Diddy Field, planted in 2004. At 160m, it’s the highest point of the estate, making it quite marginal in the UK climate, although it is south facing. 3% fermented in barrel, the rest in stainless steel. This was disgorged in 2021 with zero dosage. Made in a slightly oxidative style this has a lovely nose of ripe apple, pear and lemon with subtle toasty notes. On the palate it shows well integrated acidity and notes of almond and brioche as well as herb-tinted lemon and pear fruit. Nice complexity here: well balanced and delicious, if a little ambitiously priced compared to some of its peers.

This seems to spring out the glass offering blossoms and apples and kumquats – an expressive wine zipped up by energetic little bubbles. Rounded without being rich. Remarkable peachy ripeness of fruit. There is so much fruit here! Fleshy and juicy despite the lance of acidity and pin bones of grilled-nut smoky savouriness.