Clos des Lambrays, Domaine des Lambrays 2020

Revisited in bottle, the 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, wild berries, rose petals, sweet spices and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's rich and textural, with an ample core of fruit, beautifully powdery tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish. Youthfully reserved, like many 2020s, this nonetheless stands out as the finest Clos des Lambrays of the 21st century—for now!

Restrained, cool and elegant aromas are comprised of ripe poached plum, dark currant, anise, rose petal and a hint of earth. The succulent, concentrated and relatively powerful larger-scaled flavors exude evident salinity on the firm, serious, complex and beautifully persistent finale. Patience strongly suggested. Drink: 2035+ Note: produced from two large parcels of differing vine ages - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that are approximately 25+ years of age; made with 80% whole clusters and 80% new wood

I tasted five of the 11 individual parcellaire cuvées – everything makes it in to the final blend except for the young vine block notes in the Morey 1er Cru. Jacques is adamant that the final wine should respect the totality of the Clos. Then we tried the blend: already, this seems to have taken on a deeper colour than any of the individual cuvees. Deep dense dark fruit, with a powerful underlying dark raspberry with some more lifted rose petal notes. Probably 85% whole bunch overall but the power of the fruit stops this taking the lead. It does underpin the whole though, especially on the palate, while there is also a crystalline limestone purity behind the sweetly ripe red berry fruit. The 2020 Lambrays has more heart to it than most vintages I have tasted in barrel. There is a fine long finish, a little liquorice touch, a complex and ageworthy Lambrays. Delicacy with a strong tensile thread. Tannins by analysis are very significant but you don’t see them. From now on, the wine will spend a second winter in barrel each year. I toyed with not giving the wine 5 stars, to leave the new team something to aim at, but the wine merits the top classification.

The 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is promising, unwinding in the glass with a dark and brooding bouquet of cassis, elderberries and plums mingled with notions of smoked duck, spices, bitter orange and rose petals. Full-bodied, deep and layered, it's rich and concentrated (reflecting derisory yields of only 15 hectoliters per hectare), with powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, resonant finish. With the 2020, we begin to approach the levels of intensity and texture found in the domaine's wines of yesteryear, and if this wine realizes all its promise, my score will look conservative.