A rich, mellow and very complex Champagne that’s light-years removed from the great majority of rosés. Amazing texture, thanks to the enormous yeast contact, but there’s easily enough freshness to carry the mouth-filling body and major depth. Dried-apricot and caramelized mandarin-orange character, together with notes of tobacco leaf and subtle spice. Fully 80% chardonnay plus 20% of pinot noir from Aÿ, which was all vinified as red wine. Drink or hold.