Cos d'Estournel 1988

Mid blueish crimson with a pale rim. Looks so much younger than the 1989 and 1990 tasted alongside! Nicely evolved. The nose recalls the 1998 tasted earlier. Manages to be both fresh and fleshy (whereas so many bordeaux 1988s are a bit austere). Well done. Nervy but not skinny. Very 'correct'. Clean and fresh. A certain sweetness at first and then still a little chewy but that just serves to keep it refreshing. Quite long.

Tasted at the Cos d’Estournel dinner at St. John. This has moderate intensity on the nose, certainly less intense than the ’90, yet it has great definition and clarity with scents of red-berried fruits, smoke, wild hedgerow, cappuccino and saddle-leather. The palate is well-balanced and certainly less austere than I was expecting. Very natural, open and expressive, in some ways the antithesis of the stoic ’86, this is a wine that is begging to be consumed. Touches of wild strawberry and a hint of sour cherry towards the nicely poised, tertiary finish. Lovely, a point.