Clos de la Roche, Domaine Dujac 1999

from magnum
(with thanks to Dr. Michael Chen). Much to my surprise given the large format bottling, this was really quite aromatically expressive with really lovely depth to the mostly red and blue berry fruit that is just now beginning to evidence the first hints of secondary development along with ample amounts of earth, game and a smoky hint. The delicious and muscular medium weight plus flavors display ample minerality that continues onto the velvety and mouth coating finish that seems to go on and on. The tannins are still relatively firm and in mag format, this may need another 10 years to really arrive at its full maturity but I have shortened the drinking window slightly because the wine could be enjoyed now as there is sufficient mid-palate fat. Note further that I have raised my score slightly as this really is extremely impressive.

Earth, stones, blackberries, and cassis can discerned in the nose of the 1999 Clos de La Roche. On the palate, this dark fruit, mineral, and spice-flavoured wine is medium-bodied, firmly structured, and tightly wound. It has outstanding depth of fruit, as well as copious quantities of ripe tannins. Projected maturity: 2004-2012.

In a great vintage like 1999, it is not surprising that the Dujac Clos de la Roche is a marvelous wine. Like so many of the top grand crus from this vintage, this is still on the young side, and despite it being quite accessible today, it makes far more sense to keep it tucked away in the cellar for at least a few more years and let more of the secondary layers of complexity fully emerge. The bouquet is deep and very fine, but still a tad primary in personality, wafting from the glass in a blend of black cherries, plums, venison, chocolate, marvelous soil tones, a touch of the cinnamon that is coming and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, fullbodied and sappy at the core, with superb focus and grip, impeccable balance and a very long, still moderately tannic, albeit utterly seamless finish. This is a great wine in the making, but it is still a puppy and I would leave it in the cellar for many more years to come and let it start hitting on all cylinders before broaching it in earnest. 2025-2075+.

There is a certain reserve and distance present in this wine that the other wines don't have. Slightly austere with a mineral essence that tends to suppress the pinot baby fat lurking beneath the surface. The potential here is enormous yet it is largely hidden and unlike many '99s, this is not at all showy but rather calm and deliberate. All the components are here for a long and slow evolution but it may take 10 to 15 years to realize its awesome potential. Consistent notes.

Still deep ruby color. A highly perfumed and ultra-floral nose offers up notes of spice, earth and tea on the still almost entirely primary nose where a hint of the sauvage appears. There is a relatively refined mouth feel to the highly energetic, well-detailed and solidly mineral-driven medium weight plus flavors that possess a sleek muscularity on the superbly long and strikingly complex finale. This is one of those wines that even though it is still years away from its peak it is so well-balanced that it could easily be enjoyed now with 30 or so minutes in a carafe first. That said I would be inclined to allow this at least another 5 years of cellar time and 10 to 12 is like to be closer to the optimum. Tasted several times with consistent notes. In a word, brilliant.