Gevrey Fontenys, Domaine Joseph Roty 2017

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Fontenys is showing even better from bottle than it did from barrel, opening up in the glass with notes of cherries, cassis, smoked meats, sweet soil tones, orange rind and toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, its charming core of succulent fruit is underpinned by a serious chassis of ripe, powdery tannin. This has turned out more serious and reserved than I anticipated, but given the track record of this parcel and its 80+-year-old vines, I suppose I shouldn't be surprised. 2027 - 2050

A more restrained, fresher and notably layered nose offers up notes of black cherry, plum and spice that are trimmed in subtle wood treatment. The supple, refined and attractively mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors possess fine depth and persistence on the dusty, austere and backward finish that is presently quite compact. This well-made effort will definitely need time to unwind. Drink: 2029+ Note: from 80+ year old vines