Gewurztraminer Goldert SDGN, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007

(this was only racked in July following a long fermentation) Full gold. Musky, highly perfumed nose offers honey, flowers, smoke and marzipan; not as spicy as the Hengst SGN. Then thick and smooth, if not quite as chewy as the Hengst, with superb acidity leavening the impression of extract. With its rose petal, marzipan and building spiciness, and its strong acids, this comes off as almost magically light for SGN. Finishes with great purity and persistence. This was made in a new 600-liter cask, even though Humbrecht normally avoids using new wood for gewurztraminer. But there's little sign of oak here.

Humbrecht's 2007 Gewurztraminer Goldert Selection de Grains Nobles - vinified in a once-used demi-muid, and representing the first ever S.G.N. from these vines - had not been bottled when I last tasted it, as he was waiting for it to clarify. Candied lemon rind, licorice, faded gardenia, rose, musk, peppermint, and coconut are among the exotic aromas that then transfer themselves to a creamy, practically weightlessly buoyant palate loaded with honey, marzipan, and quince paste. Despite this elixir's confitured and confectionary cast, a marine, saline streak and a seam of fresh citrus enliven and invigorate in a finish of kaleidoscopic dynamics. As with the Hengst, there's no track record here - not, at least, at this estate - but one could reasonably conclude from other selections made in this site and its longevity in far less-concentrated form that we have here a half-century wine. At the same time - and granted that my tasting note does not reflect bottling - this is showing much more intricacy and personality at this early state than are its two immediate S.G.N. siblings.