Clos de Tart, Mommessin 2008

Mild but not invisible wood frames very ripe yet cool and airy dark fruit aromas that speak of earth, violets, underbrush and a hint of menthol that leads to reserved, intense and tautly muscular broad-shouldered flavors that are textured, naturally sweet, sappy and concentrated while being supported by a notably firm but not aggressive tannic spine and excellent length on the balanced and palate staining finish. This should require between 15 to 20 years to arrive at its apogee as it's noticeably more structured but unlike some less successful '08s, the phenolics here are quite ripe as the low yields and late picking date are clearly in evidence. This resembles the great 2001 more than a little yet there is even more overall depth of material. In short, this should be truly great in time.

Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2008 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has an open and generous bouquet with wild brambly fruit, crushed strawberry, mineral and woodland scents. This is gentler than the 2009 or 2010, more open for business perhaps. The palate is (again) wonderfully balanced with rounded tannin. There is a savory edge here, a slight meatiness developing and a suggestion of Italian cured meats towards the finish, plus a saline edge. It feels satisfyingly long in the mouth with spice notes tingling right on the end of the aftertaste. Do not underestimate this excellent Clos de Tart, surely destined to be overshadowed by the 2009.

The nose has brooding power the palate depth of fruit. Black fruits dominate the mid palate black cherry and black plum all enriched by dark chocolate. There is an underlying freshness with layers of flavour bramble, bilberry, bitter cherry and cranberry lighter and aromatic at the back the finish has length with graphite and minerals. 2022-37