Charmes Chambertin TVV, Domaine Joseph Roty 2013

(Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin - Très Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) An elegant, pure and broad-ranging nose is composed of very fresh, cool and airy aromas of both red and dark currant, spice and earth scents where the wood treatment is admirably subtle if again not invisible. There is a lovely mouth feel to the attractively intense and well-concentrated flavors that coat the palate with dry extract before culminating in a refined, well-balanced and beautifully persistent finish. Like the Griotte this is an overtly robust and powerful wine that will require an even longer snooze in a cool cellar. (Drink starting 2031)

The 2013 Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes has a broody, surprisingly introspective bouquet with raspberry coulis, blackcurrant and sous-bois notes, although to be frank it does not put any gap between itself and the 2013 Gevrey Fontenys. The palate is medium-bodied with fine definition, not quite as sensual as other Charmes-Chambertins that I have tasted, just a prickle of white pepper towards the finish, but it declines offering that knockout punch on the finish. And as such, pound for pound I prefer the Fontenys this year that seems to possess the same level of complexity.