Côte Rôtie, Domaine Stéphane Ogier 1999

The finest Cote Roties Ogier has made (and he agrees) are the 1999s. The fabulous, opaque purple-colored 1999 Cote Rotie, which spent two years in wood (30% new), reveals a glorious bouquet of bacon fat, creme de cassis, licorice, violets, and spice box. It is full-bodied, with sweet tannin, great presence in the mouth, and a knock-out finish. Although it will be approachable in its youth, 3-4 more years of cellaring will be beneficial. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2018. Michel Ogier and his son, Stephane, are producing spectacular wines. The only problem is that production is small. As I indicated last year, Ogier's 1999s are magical.