Rioja Gran Reserva 904, La Rioja Alta 2010

A step up on the memorable 2009, this shows just how special the 2010 vintage was. Marrying fruit from Briñas, Villalba and Rodezno, it's a perfectly judged marriage of Tempranillo with 10% Graciano. Savoury wild herb notes segue into a palate that's focused, balanced and graceful with the concentration and backbone to age. Drink 2019-35

It seems like yesterday when the superb 2001 was released, and now I already have the 2010 Gran Reserva 904 in my glass. It has to be among the greatest modern time vintages of this mythical bottling, where they aim for a wine that has a long aging potential. This is mostly Tempranillo with 10% Graciano and 13.5% alcohol, and it matured in fourth-used American oak barrels for four years, during which time the wine was racked every six months. It has the combination of elegance and power only the best vintages are capable of, with the classical aromas, great detail and nuance, very good balance and persistence. They consider 2010 among the best years of this century, and maybe future generations will talk about 2010 like we talk about the great classical vintages of yesterday today. The palate is polished but shows plenty of energy and tension, the tannins are very fine and elegant, and the flavors are focused and clean. This has to be one of the greatest wines from the vintage. A legend in the making. 150,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2015.

Mid-deep garnet in colour. Balsamic, black cherry, tobacco and cedar all come through on an expansive, complex nose. Rich and dense at the core, the palate is chock full of redolent fruits and earthy, leathery complexity. Both sweet and savoury, there are notes of coffee, bitter cocoa and undergrowth propped up by the fleshy fruit and vibrant acidity. The tannins are ripe and well integrated, gently framing the fruit. Very long on the finish, with a real purity of fruit shining through. Perfect to drink now, but has the structure to age for a decade or more.