Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2008

Great elegance and finesse already on the perfectly brilliant and aromatic nose shows Pol Roger's 2008 Blanc de Blancs Brut, displaying white and stewed apples with fine citrus flavors and discreet chalky aromas. The palate is dense and citric, as if limes and lemons are squeezed on a chalky rock. The purity, power and intensity is as remarkable, as is the finesse and persistence of the bubbles, the mousse on the palate and the long, persistent finish. Dosed with seven grams per liter, this extraordinary Blanc de Blanc Brut tastes drier than the Réserve Brut, but reveals a perfect ripeness of yellow fruits. The finish is lovely aromatic and intense, but also clear, fresh, firm and absolutely stimulating. This is a great Blanc de Blancs from the Grand Cru villages of Oiry, Chouilly, Cramant, Avize and Oger.

From a strong chardonnay vintage, this has a nicely layered savory nose that delivers a wealth of chalky lemon and peach fruits, grilled almonds and almost smoky minerals; really striking. The palate has the same layered, discreet complexity. Flavors of crisp lemon and white peach run smooth amid gently piercing, fine acidity. Terrific balance and depth here.

Much richer than the average Blanc de Blancs but with an excellent line of freshness, especially notable on the finish. Far from austere with a strong lemon-syllabub character. Delightful already. Thoroughly satisfying.