Predappio, Chiara Condello 2018

The 2018 Sangiovese takes things to an earthy and more animalistic place than previous vintages, as a dark and sultry display of scorched earth, peppery herbs and florals gives way to wild stemmed strawberries. It’s silky and elegant in feel, fleshing out across the palate with a salty core of brisk acids, minerals and tart red berries to contrast. The licorice and violet-tinged finale leaves a buzzing of residual tension, and an interplay of sweet and sour fruits that seems to last for up to a minute. Typically, the Predappio is intended for immediate consumption, yet the 2018 aches for a year or two of cellaring.