Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, Domaine William Fèvre 2023

The 2023 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is a step up from the slightly underwhelming 2022 last year. Fine delineation, citrus-fresh with petrichor and a touch of peach skin. The palate is well balanced, and quite powerful though well focused. A keen line of acidity with more sapidity on the finish compared to the Vaillons. Persistent spiciness on the aftertaste. Recommended. Drink 2026-2040.

This powerful, thrilling wine shows pronounced, ripe aromas of mirabelle plum, nectarine and green apple, with a strong underpinning of flinty minerality and smoky reduction. The texture is tightly wound and compact; it's substantial, but not heavy, carrying the wine to a marvellously long finish. The grapes are from 2.24ha in the lieux-dits Pied d'Aloup, Côte de Bréchain (planted 1936), and Chapelot, fermented in a combination of tank and cask, ageing now on the lees prior to bottling. Ideally wait five years before opening and drink over the next 30. Drink 2028-2050.