Chablis Valmur, Domaine François Raveneau 2019

A strong candidate for the title of wine of the vintage in Chablis this year, the Raveneau family's 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur unwinds in the glass with aromas of crisp green apple, citrus zest, iodine, oyster shell and fresh hazelnuts. Full-bodied, taut and chiseled, it's incredibly taut and concentrated, with huge depth at the core, tangy acids and a long, penetrating, pungently saline finish. Might this turn out to be even better than the magical 2017? Time will tell, but this is clearly a masterful achievement.