Bright lemon in colour. The nose is smoky, flinty and mineral with hints of preserved lemon, honeyblossom and struck match. With air more notes of fresh bread and buttery brioche come through. The palate is tight and fresh due to the vibrant acidity, bringing waves of citrus fruit. The creamy mousse adds body and richness, which balance with the more nutty, toasty flavours from the extended lees ageing. These two sides harmonise on the finish which is both fine and complex.
Disgorged in June 2015 after a staggering 12 years ageing in the cellar, this is an essay in great chardonnay with gently flinty grapefruit and lemon fruit on the nose, not to mention hints of white almond and sweet pastry-like notes. The palate has a long spark of fine acidity that is deeply integrated into fresh lemon, yellow grapefruit and beautifully fleshy, smooth mid-palate fruit flavor. Great wine. Drink it now all the way up to 2020.
Tasted blind. Great energy. Real interest on the nose and pretty high acid still on the palate (which should have led me to Lanson). A little astringent on the end. Slightly loose textured. And not that long. But it improved in the glass.
