Clos de la Roche MCMLV, Domaine Hubert Lignier 2020

The 2020 Clos-de-la-Roche "Cuvée MCMLV" Grand Cru contains 30% whole bunch and 50% new oak that undergoes a long toasting. My sample was a combination of the two barrels. It has quite a precocious bouquet with a mixture of red and blue fruit laced with graphite and sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins, enthralling depth with a touch of white pepper towards the finish that fans out like there is no tomorrow. There is a tangible difference betwee the two cuvées this year. Magnificent.

The old-vine 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée MCMLV mingles aromas of cassis and wild berries with hints of licorice, black truffle, loamy soil and toasty new oak. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and vibrant. It's more intense and finer-boned than the ampler, richer regular bottling. Both, however, are playing at a very high level.

A cooler nose reticently offers up its array of dark berries, spice and plenty of floral characters. The palate impression of the equally sized big-bodied flavors brim with an even more copious level of dry extract that confers a highly seductive mouthfeel to the intensely mineral-driven flavors that really firm up on the superbly long, balanced and stylish finale. This is terrific and while it should also age effortlessly over the next 20 years, it will very likely be approachable after only 7 to 8. If you can find this beauty, don't hesitate. Note: noted on the back label as "Hommage à Grand Père Henri Lignier"; from a .29 ha parcel on the far southern border of Monts Luisants that was bought in 1944 but not planted until 1955, hence the Roman numeral designation; from yields of only 17 hl/ha in 2020, or about two barrels Drink: 2038+