Vosne Romanee Suchots, Domaine Hudelot-Noellat 2017

More than living up to its fine performance from barrel, the 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots is showing very well from bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of black cherries, wild berries, smoked tea, spices and rose hip. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with fine concentration at the core, ripe but succulent acids, powdery tannins and a long finish. This beautifully balanced bottling exemplifies what could be achieved in 2017 with old vines and moderate yields, and it comes very warmly recommended.

Charles van Canneyt's 0.5ha block in Les Suchots was planted in 1910, which makes it the oldest at the domaine. In a vintage that stumped some producers, he has made a beautifully delineated wine that's textured and nuanced, effortlessly integrating its 40% new wood and showing a wonderful brightness and purity of fruit. (Drink between 2022-2030)

Here too there is a touch of reduction present on what appears to be slightly riper aromas that also display spice wisps but not much else. The supple, delicious and nicely vibrant medium weight flavors possess a succulent, even fleshy mid-palate, while displaying fine richness on the lingering finish. This isn't quite as refined or complex as the Beaux Monts but the balance is better as is the length. (Drink starting 2029)