The 2007 Celebris Extra Brut is the latest rendition of this cuvée, which cellar master Odilon de Varine describes as "not a vintage Gosset but a Gosset vintage"—meaning that it's produced only in years adapted to the house's powerful but austere style. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of lemon oil, marzipan, warm biscuits and wet stones, it's full-bodied, with a deep and concentrated core of ripe but racy fruit, a tangy spine of acidity and an elegant pinpoint mouse, displaying terrific purity and precision.
As an Extra Brut with a low dosage of 3g/l, and blocked malolactic fermentation, this wine is expectedly tight, mineral and vibrant. A blend of 57% Chardonnay and 43% Pinot Noir, the Celebris spends 10 years in bottle before disgorgement. Bright and pale in the glass, notes of green apple, bright lemon zest and brioche come through on a very youthful and lifted nose. The palate is steely, with great tension from waves of acidity that reveal pink grapefruit and crisp green apple. The mousse is very fine but persistent, and when considered in tandom with the expansive smoky brioche and buttery biscuit notes that come through on the long finish, suggest a real potential to improve with time in the bottle. For now, this is mineral, taut and crisp, a very lively, vibrant and pure expression of Champagne.
This stylish, complex and elegantly powerful Champagne is the pinnacle of Gosset’s range and delivers such layered, fresh and complex style. The palate has a super smooth-honed, long and plush feel with a wealth of grilled almonds and grapefruit. Long, succulent draw through the finish. Magnificent. Drink now.
