Corton Renardes, Domaine Michel Mallard 2014

This too is highly restrained with its grudging nose of red currant, spice, earth and once again intensely sauvage permeated aromas. There is excellent power and plenty of punch to the broad-shouldered and superbly well-concentrated full-bodied flavors that culminate in a tight, serious, hugely long and well-balanced finish. This is distinctly old school in style and it would be pointless to open a bottle before it has at least 10 years of age. This is one of the best examples in 2014 from the Hill of Corton.

The most long-lived of Domaine Mallard's Corton lieu-dits, this year's Renardes is a vivid ruby in the glass with a lightly purple hue. The nost is subtle at this early stage - hints of nutmeg, clove and light toast sit on a bed of summer fruits which are lightly earthy. The potential of this wine is revealed on the palate - blue and red fruits are etched into the core and drive through to a very long finish. The tannins provide ample structure, signalling the ageing potential of the wine - but they are still fine-grained and ripe. Light smokiness and savoury spice builds towards the finish, complementing the earthy, cool fruit. A serious, classic Burgundian style that will reward cellaring for 5 or more years before approaching the first bottle.