Saint Aubin Murgers des Dents de Chien, Jean-Claude Bachelet 2020

A brilliant effort, the 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien unwinds in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, citrus oil, almond paste, fresh croissants and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, with a taut, concentrated core, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish, its proximity to the top crus of Puligny and Chassagne is apparent.

Fine pale yellow. The bouquet does not give too much. The holding is now 0.2770 after gaining two ouvrées which have just been planted but are not included in 2020. There is a substantial volume to this, even a little muscularity, but there is adequate flesh as well, perhaps the most complete wine though I cannot help loving Chatenière most of all. Light liquorice finish.