| Region | |
|---|---|
| Subregion | France > Burgundy > Côte de Beaune |
| Colour | White |
| Type | Still |
The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard has turned out especially well, mingling aromas of citrus oil and white flowers with hints of crisp orchard fruit and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, taut and incisive, it's a racy, electric wine with superb depth at the core and a long, searingly mineral finish. I'm happy to have several bottles in my cellar.
Good balance in both wines, 13.1% alcohol and 3.20 pH, the same readings as 2009. The regular bottling includes the younger HD vines from the 2015 planting. Clear bright pale colour, this is brilliantly sensual. So much detail begins to come out – the best of 2014 and 2015 combined? Exceptional persistence here, and a brilliantly fresh limestone quality throughout. The salting is delicate in this brilliantly nuanced wine.
A steely, mineral and focused wine - this Saint Aubin shows the utmost precision we should expect given Lamy's meticulous nature and the vintage's naturally tightly-wound and acid-driven profile. It still needs coaxing from the glass, but with air and at close to room temperature it starts to yield. Light leesy tones add a little generosity to pure lemon and white peach fruit. The flinty edges are well judged, not dominant but building fine layers with the fruit and subtle, savoury spice of integrated new oak. The palate follows in the same vein, all minerals and precision with a taut core of fruit. Give this a little more time, the finish promises so much. Bursting with energy and a very long, satiny finish, it will be even better at 10 years old.
