Destieux 2005

A well-known and consistent wine from the estate of Christian Dauriac, this big, plump, opulent 2005 is one of the best wines I have ever tasted from this estate. It is full-bodied and multi-dimensional, with a big, juicy texture and loads of plum, blackcurrant, spicy oak and minerality. Full and rich, with the tannins just beginning to show some resolution and better integration, this is a big-time sleeper of the vintage that should drink well for another 15-20 years. Drink 2015 - 2035.

Proprietor Christian Dauriac has hit a home run with his 2005 Destieux. The tremendous effort he has been putting into this property over the last decade has been rewarded with a well-deserved upgrade in the recent Classification of St.-Emilion. A blend of 66% Merlot and the rest equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (from 45-year old vines), the nearly black-colored 2005 reveals aromas of roasted meats, sweet blackberry and cassis fruit, licorice, tar, smoke, and incense. A modern day blockbuster with superb purity, density, concentration, and length, it should round into drinkable form with another 5-8 years of bottle age, and last for 2-3 decades. It is good to see the only flaw in older vintages, the rusticity of the tannins, completely tamed.

Kudos to proprietor Christian Dauriac (and consultant Michel Rolland) for this outstanding effort as well as for Destieux’s recent upgrade to a Grand Cru Classe in the most recent classification of St.-Emilions (suspended in March, 2007 because of litigation). From a 45-year-old vineyard in St.-Hippolyte planted with 66% Merlot and equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (an atypically high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon), the 2005 achieved 14.5% natural alcohol. The rusticity of older vintages has been tamed, and the result is a full-bodied, powerful, muscular, concentrated, intense St.-Emilion offering a dense ruby/purple color as well as loads of espresso roast, roasted meat, sweet cassis, and subtle herbal characteristics. This full-throttle blockbuster possesses impressive purity and density. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022.

After Destieux’s brilliant 2003, I thought proprietor Christian Dauriac may have hit the highest peak possible at this old vineyard (average age 45 years). However, the blockbuster 2005 may well eclipse the 2003. Consultant Michel Rolland’s final blend consists of 66% Merlot, and equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. A flamboyant, muscular, seriously concentrated wine of great intensity, it possesses a dense black/purple color as well as a gorgeous nose of smoke, truffles, blackberries, earth, new saddle leather, and grilled meat juices. The wine is amazingly dense, rich, and powerful yet also elegant and fresh. The 14.5% alcohol is the highest this estate has achieved. Blame the 2005 drought for that characteristic. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025+