We recently had the pleasure of welcoming Olivier Humbrecht to our offices to show us his most recent release – the 2020 vintage. A visit from Olivier is always special – there are few more engaging, eloquent and intelligent winemakers and we would happily have spent hours with him.
His 2020s are simply electric. We have followed his wines for years now and, whilst it might be hard to pick between 2019 & 2020 in terms of overall quality, Olivier’s 2020s have a precision, an energy and a depth to them that is breathtaking. Moreover, this is a vintage where terroir clearly shines through from wine to wine.
Quantities are, as ever, limited. Highlights are tough to pick as the selection is outstanding across the board, with each varietal and each vineyard showing at their best.
The three Gewurztraminers are all quite different - the Clos St Urbain is edgy, with a crackle of smokiness and a real energy underpinned with a zesty acidity. The Clos Windsbuhl is riper with a meaty sweetness to it; the Hengst is somewhere between the two with a disarming balance of weight and elegance.
The Pinot Gris wines are particularly good in 2020. This is a difficult grape to get right in warm vintages though Olivier clearly nailed it. They are pin-sharp in terms of balance and focus, and show their terroir with exceptional clarity.
The Rieslings are powerful, steely and svelte. The Brand is the ripest of the five, the Windsbuhl the most elegant. All have an almost electric energy to them and this is a selection that took our breath away.
Finally: the Muscat Goldert. This is an inimitable wine, and arguably the finest expression of this variety that there is. We recommend this vintage across the board.