Hermitage La Chapelle, Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aine 1991

Still remarkably dark in colour despite its age. Gorgeous aromatics here - incredibly spicy and lifted, with potpourri and cigar smoke, almost minty. Only medium-bodied now at most, but not dry or lacking in fruit on the palate. Exceedingly savoury, with smoked duck and black olive, all backed up by remarkably bright, piercing acidity. It is almost narcotic on the nose, then the palate wakes you up like a thunderclap with incredible salinity and electricity running through it, and enormous length. Not as rich as the 1990, but this has more energy and salinity. Made by the Jaboulet family before the Freys took over in 2006. The wines were more heavily extracted at the time, according to Caroline Frey, the current winemaker. There was just this one red cuvée at that time, no second wine, and it was destemmed.

Jacques Jaboulet stated that in 1991, the weather was fine until harvest, when it turned damp and gloomy. The saturated dark ruby/purple-colored 1991 La Chapelle is just beginning to reveal secondary nuances. Aromas of Asian spices, soy, grilled steak, pepper, and blackberries are beginning to emerge. Ripe and dense, with tart acidity (a cool vintage characteristic), it is a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, impressively-endowed La Chapelle with surprising length and intensity. It looks to be slightly better than I originally suggested. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020

The 1991 Hermitage La Chapelle is now fully mature and a classy, elegant La Chapelle with lots to love, although it's not getting any better and has been in its peak drinking window for over 10-15 years now. Revealing a healthy dark plum hue with solid bricking at the rim, it has a great nose of ripe black fruits, cured meats, baking spices, subtle soy, game, and hints of chocolate. Just classic La Chapelle aromatically, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, sweet tannin, a plush, soft texture, and outstanding length. From a year that saw a great growing season that was capped by bad weather at harvest, this justifiably lives in the shadow of the 1990 but is nevertheless a gorgeous wine. this beauty will continue drinking nicely for another 8-10 years, although as I said, there's no need to delay gratification and if you have them, find something to celebrate and enjoy.