Clos de Vougeot, Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2017

A deft application of wood sets off beautifully layered aromas of red cherry, newly turned earth, subtle spice and a touch of humus character. The palate impression of the medium weight is once again highly energetic and beautifully well-detailed while displaying excellent focus and persistence on the youthfully austere finale. Like the Reignots, this won't wow you with imposing size or power but rather with its persistence and balance. This needs to add depth but if it does my rating could be viewed as somewhat too conservative. (Drink starting 2029)

The 2017 Clos Vougeot from Domaine Liger-Belair is truly exceptional this year. The bouquet is very deep and complex, offering up a constellation of black cherries, black raspberries, a touch of red plum, gamebird, a complex base of soil tones and nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and soil-driven in personality, with ripe, suave tannins, good acids and excellent length and grip on the long and very classy finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2027-2075)