Vosne Reignots, Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2017

An intensely floral and notably high-toned red berry fruit nose is replete with a plethora of exotic spice nuances. The wonderfully refined, racy and intense middle weight flavors possess outstanding delineation, indeed the driving and overtly saline finish is chiseled and strikingly complex. This won't wow you with its density but this classy and Zen-like effort is an exercise in lace and grace. (Drink starting 2029)

As is always the case in the Liger-Belair cellars, there is a step up to the Reignots from the other fine premier crus here and this is again the case with the beautiful 2017 bottling. The bouquet is pure and flamboyant, soaring from the glass in a blaze of black raspberries, plums, smoked duck, a very complex base of minerality, black tea, smoky new oak and a topnote of Oriental spices. On the palate the wine is pure, full and very complex, with a silky attack, a sappy core, lovely soil signature and a long, moderately tannic, fine-grained and vibrant finish of glorious complexity. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2023-2065)