Griotte Chambertin, Domaine Joseph Roty 2017

The 2017 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries, black raspberries, woodsmoke, cloves and peonies, framed by a deft touch of toasty new oak. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, its satiny and expansive attack segues into an ample but muscular mid-palate, with refined but youthfully assertive tannins making their presence felt on the long, resonant finish. From a small parcel surrounded on three sides by Fourrier's holdings, this is a serious Griotte that will need time.

(Domaine Joseph Roty Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) Very subtle wood surrounds the more elegant and higher-toned aromas of red cherry, pomegranate, spice and a floral whiff. Somewhat surprisingly, the middle weight flavors possess both more volume and refinement while displaying a bit less power on the driving, detailed and complex finish that also betrays a hint of warmth. This is a powerful yet elegant Griotte that is a combination of power and finesse. (Drink starting 2032)