The 2009 Vinha Velha has wonderful intensity on the nose, although it is a little more aloof than the Taylor’s, almost like a Bordeaux in the sense of holding back. It opens ajar with continued aeration, offering scents of black currant, blueberry and licorice, but the scents are controlled and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with a velvety smooth opening. This is plush and sweet with a touch of viscosity that lacquers the mouth. Just when you think it could become overpowering, it pulls back on the finish, which is wonderfully poised and pure, real minerality beginning to show through after 30 minutes in the glass. It needs another decade in bottle, but it patently has great potential.
The 2009 Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port is a typical field blend aged in used French oak vats. It comes in with 98 grams per liter of residual sugar. One of the fleshiest wines in the vertical—from a very warm year—this has plenty of power and fine depth, hallmarks of the vintage. This was not always received as well as some lusher vintages, but it was likely also far more closed when young. This is a relative powerhouse even now, stern and dramatically different than the lusher and sexier 2007, for instance. For me, always obsessed with structure, it rings the bell. Laced with herbs and dried fruits, this is mightily impressive on its own terms, though. It adds a long finish, but it shows no trace of maturity anytime in the near future. The fruit is sappy but very dry. For all of its power, it retains some elegance, and it is vaguely approachable. The key word there is "vaguely." Do you want to enjoy it or just fight off the tannins?
This is another brilliant Vinha Velha, even if often underrated, probably thanks to its somewhat brooding demeanor. Even now, it is a relatively backward one that needs much more time to express itself. Drink it if you must now, but you'll probably regret it. 2030 - 2080
