Smith Haut Lafitte 2008

One of the stars of the vintage, this elegant, smoky wine has hints of barbecue pit intermixed with sweet black currants and cherries. Dark purple and medium to full-bodied, its impressive finesse and wonderful purity make for a surprisingly forward style of Smith-Haut-Lafitte to drink over the next 15 or so years.

Something a little cheesy on the nose. Sweet start but a lack of concentration. A little slack. Rather green tannins. A bit austere. But confident and with real attack and bite. Lots there. All on the finish. Impressive on the finish, which makes me think I may have underrated it. Absolutely no tartiness. This seemed an especially pure Smith, quite a departure from some previous vintages, or a next step on the road for Smith: less seductive and going for pure individuality.

The 2008 Smith-Haut-Lafitte, which is somewhat reminiscent of the brilliant 1998, exhibits sweet cassis, tobacco leaf, earth, and barbecue characteristics in its complex aromatics. The wine reveals ripe, supple tannin, medium to full body, gorgeous fruit, impeccable purity, and a luscious texture. It should be relatively approachable in its youth, and last for 25+ years. The final composition was 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc.As I have noted so many times in the past, since the early nineties, Daniel and Florence Cathiard have done a remarkable job resurrecting this once insipidly run estate.

This is very ripe and plumy on the nose with touches of cassis, raisin and liquorice. Just a little over the top for me. The palate is very ripe and supple, a Margaux-like texture, silky tannins, very focused and sensuous on the finish. As usual, this is a polished wine, not as complex as others but texturally it is wonderful. It will be interesting to see whether this gains nuances during élevage, although it cuts away abruptly. Tasted April 2009