In late April, I was returning from my time "down under" where I’d worked at some fantastic wineries and checked the quality of Farr Vintners' great New Zealand imports along the way. However, I will admit, I was pining for some Claret and arguably saved the best for last as I happened to be in Shanghai & Hong Kong for two fantastic wine dinners hosted by the ever-engaging Director of Cos d’Estournel, Jean-Guillaume Prats.
The Park Hyatt Shanghai and Otto e Mezze restaurant in Central, Hong Kong, were the two venues for the first showings of 2011, 2010 & (the sublime) 2009 served together for the first time outside of the chateau. With everyone seated, we started off with the two most recent vintages, 2011 & 2010, alongside each other.
2011 and 2010 Cos d'Estournel
|
Jean-Guillaume described how massive sacrifices had been made in the selection process with the 2011 due to a difficult year (with a warm spring and cool summer creating small berries with thick skins). As a result, only 9000 cases have been produced (half of 2010 & 2009). A deep colour and intense, smoky nose is followed by heavy tannin on the palate but balanced by black cherry, Asian spices and aniseed. A good effort in a challenging year, 17.
The 2010 on the other hand is a big wine with lots of fruit, as is generally the norm in the upper echelons of Bordeaux. The wine is still incredibly structured due to the firm tannins and allowed me to use my favourite wine term- ‘an iron fist in a velvet glove’. Lots of dark fruit laced with spice and black olive. Not ready, but a powerhouse, 18.5. It was very interesting to try these two wines side by side and we were also lucky enough to try the wonderfully aromatic Cos d’Estournel Blanc 2008 along with Iberico Ham.
Big steaks at Otto e Mezze
|
Having tried the two youngest wines on offer, we turned our attention to two of the starlets from the ‘noughties’ in the form of 2005 and 2003. The former is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon which instantaneously reveals itself as a serious wine. Big tannin balanced with layers of dark fruit, burnt toast and black truffle result in a gorgeous wine that is still closed and won’t be fully singing for a few years yet, 18.
While the 2003 has had the benefit of two extra years of maturity, the vintage as a whole is less structured than the 2005’s and this was drinking really well. Exuberant, rich and intense was my tasting note…and that was just on the nose. Black cherry and black pepper create seductively spicy flavours on the palate wrapped up beautifully thanks to the softened tannins. Very open and approachable and a good pairing alongside Homemade Pappardelle with lamb and mushroom ragout, 18.5.
All the wines
|
With these top wines still on our lips, we went a bit older as 1995 & 1985 appeared. For the ’95, I found Mr Parker’s tasting note particularly on the money- ‘gobs of black fruits intermixed with toast pain grillé scents and boatload of spice’. Leather and Cigar Box aromas on the finish left a smile on my face, 18.5
The 1985 was a real mixed bag with red and black fruits giving it a lush body while cedar wood and mahogany characters gave it a classier, sophisticated finish. Has benefited form ageing but I wouldn’t give it too much longer, 18. Both these wines impressed us and went down even faster with incredibly tender rib-eye steak.
1982 and 2009 Cos d'Estournel
|
As soon as I had arrived at the restaurant, I had started telling everyone in my vicinity how fantastic the final pairing of the evening was (having tried them in Shanghai the night before). Alongside a plate of Italian Cheese, we were served the 1982 and amazing 2009…and they didn’t disappoint. The 1982 is such a gorgeous a wine that I had to ask for a drop more as I’d forgotten to write a tasting note, I was enjoying it so much. A deep black colour (amazing for a wine now 30 years old) is followed by a seductive, smoky nose. Black fruit, wild flowers, liquorice and spice form some of the flavours in a wine with more layers than a Knickerbocker Glory. Chanterelle mushrooms, pepper and a silky finish combine beautifully for my wine of the night, 19.5+.
This was up against stiff competition though in the form of the monumental 2009 Cos d’Estournel which has picked up so many plaudits across the world. This wine is incredibly rich with deep, developed flavours of dark fruit, leather, cigar and black cherry. It is balanced superbly with smooth tannins which are not at all overpowering. ‘One of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted’ is the quote which has dominated the prestige surrounding this wine, but for me, it is incredible to try such a powerful, young wine that is still expressive and attractive in the mouth. If the 1982 is an Aston Martin, this is a Lamborghini. Although I preferred the 1982 on the night, as it has had the benefit of time, the 2009 is real first-growth quality and shows the enormous steps being made by Jean-Guillaume at Cos, 19.5.
Ben Browett and Jean-Guillaume Prats
|
In a trip where I had jumped out of a plane, surfed and bungee-jumped, I struggled to think if I’d been as excited as I was when trying this incredible line-up of wines from one of the most consistently performing chateaux in Bordeaux. Thanks must go to Shanghai Park Hyatt & Otto e Mezzo for fantastic food and service and to Jo and her team in Hong Kong for their meticulous planning of both dinners. Special thanks to Jean-Guillaume for sparing the time to talk us through the wines. It was a fantastic evening.
