Arbois Savagnin Maceration Pelliculaire, Domaine du Pélican 2019

Their first skin-contact cuvée was in 2018. They vinified a small portion of the Savagnin grapes as if they were red, fermenting them with their skins. Fermentation temperature up to 30 °C. Total two weeks on the skins. This ‘gives the wine additional structure without losing its tension and vibrancy’. Aged in barrel not foudre because the volumes were so small.
Very pale orange. Wonderfully inviting sour citrus aroma, quince, apricot and a touch of bitter orange. But all quite delicate for this style of wine. Slightly floral too with dried grasses and wild flowers and a light sweaty/lapsang note that seems to dissipate with air. Firm, chewy, sour-fruited and immensely complex and mouth-watering. The moderate tannins add to the freshness and are not in the least astringent. The smoky mineral character is there in the mouth too but less obvious because of the other aromas from the skin contact. Satisfying, textured wine that would be very versatile with food but would overpower delicate white fish. Long… (JH)