Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2005

If forced to choose a recent Comtes de Champagne for drinking today, I would gravitate towards the 2005. A beautiful wine, the 2005 has some of the openness of the 2002 mixed with a little of the energy of the 2004, but without the sheer personality of either. Instead, the 2005 impresses for its persistence, harmony and sheer drinkability. Best of all, unlike some recent prior vintages, the 2005 is not going to require any cellaring to offer its best drinking. I would cellar the 2002 and 2004, and drink the 2005 for the next decade-plus.

Shows lovely balance, with a chinalike backbone of acidity, finely meshed with a creamy mousse and rich and toasty flavors of roasted hazelnut, creamed apple, lemon parfait and spun honey. A vein of smoky minerality echoes on the finish. Drink now through 2028.