Clos Fourtet 2006

A blend of 80% Merlot and the rest equally split between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this wine has a dense purple color and a beautifully sweet nose of blackberry and blueberry fruits intermixed with acacia flowers, charcoal, and some subtle oak. The wine is nicely textured, medium-bodied, and very concentrated for a 2006 St.-Emilion, with a certain degree of opulence and sucrosite. This is a beauty, with moderate tannins in the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2027. If you haven't gotten on the Clos Fourtet bandwagon, now is the time, as demand will certainly increase.After the prodigious 2005 and 2003, it is more difficult to get excited over what proprietor Philippe Cuvelier and his brilliant vineyard manager Tony Ballu, the producer of Pierre La Lune, have done, but this is a very strong effort. About 3,000 cases are made from this picture-postcard, fabulous vineyard on the deep limestone plateau just adjacent to the walls as well as the town of St.-Emilion.

The 2006 Clos Fourtet has a ripe, forward kirsch and iodine-scented bouquet, blueberries emerging time with just a faint touch of volatility that in some ways has become part of this Saint Emilion's character profile. You have to stand back and admire its bavura. The palate is maturing nicely, better than 2006 Troplong-Mondot with black cherries, blackcurrant, tar and Asian spices. This is nicely focused and shows superb freshness, a Saint Emilion that appears to have meliorated in bottle.

Crushed blackberry, dark chocolate and spices on the nose follow through to a full body, with very soft tannins that turn silky and refined. Fresh, rich and racy. Better than previously reviewed. Best after 2013.

Healthy glowing purple. Fresh, clean, supple nose. Quite a bit of charm - very relaxed. Very sappy and somehow this wine avoids those rasping tannins. Maybe not for the very long term but well done! Rather easy but at least it’s not overextracted. Clean finish, and actually surprisingly long.

Full medium ruby. Musky, slightly reduced nose offers black plum, licorice and dark chocolate. Full and lush, with attractive mid-palate sweetness to the dark berry and toasty oak flavors. This slightly chunky, modern-style wine strikes me as still a bit reduced, and the big, mouthdusting tannins call for at least a few years of patience.