2015 Ten Years On

Saint Emilion is a region that was still in transition from Parkerised wines to their modern infused style – extraction and extended hang time were still on trend at some properties in 2015. But there were some gems. Canon rightly has an excellent reputation, and it showed very well; unforced and graceful, trying much less hard than some of its neighbours and pulling off a very elegant yet deep and characterful wine. It came second to Ausone for the group, which retained acidity despite its opulence. The fruit was still pristine and youthful, this will be a wine with a great future. There were quite a few misses, be it through alcohol, rapid evolution or a general lack of definition/clarity of fruit.

In Pomerol Lafleur took the crown and was very impressive indeed, matching the appellation’s succulence with vibrant verticality from the varieties used and I expect the advanced level of farming and attention to detail for which this property is known. Eglise Clinet was just behind, again a powerful and youthful expression that needs time. The mini Durantou wines all did well, outscoring others at multiples of the price. Overall it felt like the Merlots from the right bank were maturing quickly. The wines are soft and surprisingly savoury already, turning garnet at the rim and in bad examples showing a bit too much alcohol. Be selective, however, and there are some excellent wines at varied price points.

Pessac-Léognan was led by Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion, two powerful, full-bodied wines that some tasters loved but for me showed just a touch of that alcohol we saw in the right bank (they are both 15% abv). Malartic Lagravière put in a very strong performance – this is an impressive wine in 2015 and beat the usual suspects to third spot. As with the right bank there were some elevated alcohols, but this was generally better handled and the earthy, naturally smoky tones of Pessac still came through. There are wines to enjoy here that can be drunk now.

Margaux has a strong reputation in 2015 and this is as consistent a flight from the appellation that I can remember tasting, though perhaps with fewer special wines than I expected. Château Margaux won the flight and came second overall, its Cabernet-led style keeping focus, depth and youthful vigour. There is an interplay between salinity and fragrant, floral overtones that make this very enticing, and it has the structure for long-term ageing. I enjoyed Rauzan Ségla, which like Canon was unforced, typical of its appellation and full of character. Giscours did very well, its muscular style appealing to the group. It seemed structure and focus brought the highest scores in a year we were looking for wines that weren’t ageing at an accelerated pace.

Saint Julien was consistent as always, though lacking the peaks and excitement we have come to expect. Rains before harvest in the northern Médoc gave dilution to wines from here and further north, and it did show at times. Léoville Las Cases was the winner, a muscular effort again speaking to the tasters’ preference for wines ageing more slowly. Léoville Poyferre was just behind - an opulent, brambly and rich wine.

Pauillac unsurprisingly had some stars. Latour won both here and overall, its power, density and structure speaking more to the place than the time. This is the wine to keep in 2015, one of few that is not quite ready to drink, with inky cassis fruit, cedary depth and effortless length. It is outstanding. Pichon Lalande was also excellent, supple but still youthful, a feat few properties managed at this tasting and a testament to the work going on at this over-performing château.

Saint Estèphe was always going to be a tricky appellation given the inclement weather it faced before harvest and so it proved. The flight had several issues with bottle variation/faults and I think that put the tasters in a particularly ungenerous mood with scoring. Calon Ségur was the winner and Tronquoy Lalande was the clear over-performer, a wine that offers good value for money and which you can drink now. Largely, though, there are much more consistent vintages to buy if you like this appellation – I would rather drink the 2016s or (often cheaper) 2014s.

The sweet wines are ageing gracefully and are showing signs that this is a very good vintage, though like the reds perhaps not a great one. I would like a little more acidity - I often do with these wines - but the fruit is pure and powerful, the botrytis flamboyant and expressive and the balance with soft acidity making these delicious to drink already. Rieussec was the winner, with Doisy Vedrines putting in a strong showing to come second.

Reading my notes I see frequent use of the words blurred and smudged, that is to say the wines lack the crisp definition and purity of a vintage like 2016, 2019 or 2020 (and 2014 for the northern Médoc). I wanted more from these wines – they are maturing quicker than expected and while there are some drinking options and stellar wines at the top of the pyramid, it is not universally great. I have concerns that several wines show early (and in some cases developed) signs of oxidation and occasionally brett at a level I personally wouldn’t want, a result of the heat but also decision making in the vineyard and winery. Almost everything is drinking now, and aside from the top 30 or so names, I would want to drink up over the next 10-15 years. Some tasters questioned whether that reflected on Bordeaux’s ageing capacity more widely, but I think one only need look at 2014 or 2016 to see that the region still produces wines for the long haul. 2015 is a hard vintage to define because the appellations have different personalities (and problems), but the closest comparison I would consider is 2012 with more ripeness (and more alcohol). This translates nicely as the slight dilution and lower alcohols for the northern Médoc apply to both years.

I was a little disappointed but not overly surprised by the vintage. I had hoped for some superb drinking options, and I think picking carefully in Margaux, Pessac and the right bank you can find some gems, but this is a vintage to buy selectively. It certainly feels like a year that marks the end of an older era where farming, harvesting and winemaking choices were still in transition and not always done with the utmost care. You can see from the likes of Canon, Lafleur, Latour, Margaux and others that the top estates were making serious headway ahead of their peers: perhaps a blend of the terroir, expertise and financial prowess needed to make progress at speed. These are genuinely excellent wines that I would like to have in my cellar.

Some of the group maintain the vintage is better than it showed at this tasting. Time will tell, but I think this is a good vintage with a clutch of great wines; it lacks the depth of quality to be considered top tier or even top of the second tier. 2016, 2019 and 2020 all clearly stand above. In many cases I would rather drink 2014s from the northern Médoc, which taste of where they’re from, and in some cases I prefer 2012s from the right bank, which have less alcohol (though 2015 Canon and Lafleur really did get me excited). Taking the region as a whole, though, it does rank above these vintages. People will enjoy drinking the 2015s, and they can do so now, but this is not a year for the long haul. Onwards and upwards: next year should be a real treat with 2022 and 2016 the vintages up for discussion.

Top Wines by Appellation
Saint Emilion – Ausone
Pomerol – Lafleur
Pessac-Léognan – Haut Brion
Margaux – Margaux
Saint Julien – Léoville Las Cases
Pauillac – Latour
Saint Estèphe – Calon Ségur
Sauternes/Barsac – Rieussec

Vintage ranking, decade to 2021 :
Top tier: 2016, 2019, 2020 (at its peak)
Second tier: 2018, 2015 (excluding Saint Estèphe), 2014 (northern Médoc), 2012 (right bank/Pessac)
Third tier: 2021, 2017, 2015 (Saint Estèphe), 2014 (elsewhere), 2012 (elsewhere)
Bringing up the rear: 2013